Thailand: Khao San Road

Well, I will have to be honest. I was really, really sad about leaving Tonsai...the climbing, the community feel, the beach, the monkeys...I am really going to miss it. However, I have had a most exciting few days in Bangkok...and I am still not traveling alone!

Kalu and I decided to leave on the 30th, and at the last minute our three American buddies (two are from Georgia!) decided to catch the same bus...I am starting to think they are following us...crazy southern boys.

We took an overnight train out of Surat Thani, arriving in Bangkok around 5:30 am...of course, the streets were still fairly busy that time, what with shopowners getting ready for a new day of sales to drunken farang (foreigners) missing their mouths with glops of Phad Thai. We wandered around for a while in search of a room, eventually splitting up...Kalu and I found a nice room at Ranee's Guesthouse, then headed to a spa for a morning of pampering...that is, if you consider an hour of hot wax and ripping hairs out of one's legs and the Thai-style massage of sharp elbows and knees in one's back a walk in the park.

That evening we met up with the boys, eventually having one of the most fun night I have had in ages! We ended up at an all-Thai dance club near farang-filled Khao San Road, and, despite a few initial glares from various territorial Thais, danced the night away! Afterwards, we had phad thai, and I was even so fortunate as to have a stray dog run up to me and start licking the huge scab on my knee...gotta love a night out in Bangkok!

Thailand: Back in Action!

Well, after almost a week of resting and boredom, I have finally gotten my lazy butt back on the rock! On Friday morning, I met up with my friends Emma and Robbie, the British couple I met my first day in Railay. After breakfast, we walked over to the edge of Railay beach for a full day of climbing. I was very worried that my knee would not allow me to do anything difficult, but fortunately, the only problem was that I had a slight tightness in my leg and was able to complete three climbs, with my final climb being one of the most difficult I have ever done (6b+/5.11a).

Saturday morning I hooked up with two guys I met this week, and we went to the beach to "warm-up" on a 6b+ climb. These guys are really good climbers and way out of my league, especially considering that their warm-up is the the max of my difficulty level. Amazingly, I made it to the top of the climb (it was not pretty...lots of cheating and even a huge fall as I was clipping into the anchor), but I managed to do it. I hung around for a bit to watch them climb, then declared defeat and went in search of my roommate Kalu.

Kalu wanted to climb with me, so I decided to play instructor and took her and two of my newfound American friends to an easy rock wall. We had a great afternoon, and were exhausted by the end of the day!

With today being my last day of climbing, I talked Robbie into joining me for a multi-pitch climb over the beach. It was a fairly easy climb, and the view from the top was astounding! However, it took us the whole day, and now I am beat!

Thailand: Phi Phi Islands

Today, after too many days spent lounging on the beach, I decided to fork over way too much money to take an all-day boat tour around Phi Phi Islands.

I met the speedboat around 9:00 am, and we first did a drive-by of Viking Cave. After checking out the cave from the confines of our boat, we headed over to a beautiful lagoon for a spin through the water.

The next stop was another beautiful lagoon where we donned snorkels and masks and jumped in to swim with the fishies. It was absolutely gorgeous down there, but of course I have intense ADD, especially when it comes to snorkeling, so after five minutes I had already taken off my gear and was swimming laps until everyone else was finished.

After snorkeling, we finally headed to the the place I was most looking forward to see: Maya Bay. This is the site of the filming of "The Beach". It was just as beautiful as it was in the movie (albeit crowded with speedo-wearing tourists), and well worth the visit, even if it was only for about thirty minutes.

After Maya Bay, we drove by the main section of Phi Phi Island that was hardest hit by the tsunami. Unfortunately, the boat did not stop, and I was disappointed not to be able to go onto the island to survey the damage that was still very much apparent.

By this point, I was completely bored and regretting the insane cost of my so-so trip. We went to another beach for a quick swim, and after a hearty lunch at the Holiday Inn (I tried very hard to get my money's worth!), we went for another swim in the middle of the ocean with more fishies...this time we fed them bread, so they were swarming!

Our last stop was an hour on a beautiful sandy white beach before finally heading back to Tonsai. It was nice to get away and do something with myself, but these packaged tour things are just way too overpriced and overrated!

On another note, my knee is feeling much better...still swollen and sore, but I am ready to get back to climbing tomorrow!

Thailand: Bored!!!

My knee still has yet to digest its cantaloupe...my tan's getting nice, though...what more can I say? This is starting day three of nothing more to do than sit in the sun and read...my ADD is too strong for this!

On another note, Andrew has had enough of us two crazy girls, so he's moved out of our bungalow and Kalu and I have gotten a smaller place...I just do not understand why he would find us annoying...

Also, while moving out of our large bungalow, I met three American guys who were moving in. Americans are hard to come by around here, so I was astounded to find that two of them were from Atlanta, Georgia. Wow! Even wilder, they were on the same flight out of Los Angeles with me.

Finally, Kalu and I took advantage of the fact that there is nothing to do by renting a kayak for the day. We paddled around the massive rock cliffs jutting out of the ocean, stopping for a quick sunbathe and swim on Phra Nang Beach. I also bought a very expensive ticket to tour Phi Phi Islands...it is probably going to be a very cheezy group tour, but hey, it is something to do for my poor, decrepit self!

Thailand: Ow Ow OW!!!

Still enjoying Tonsai...however, I can now do nothing but relax on the beach...what a rough life.

Yesterday morning I met some guys who were climbing on the beach, and I asked one of them to belay me while I climbed an "easy" route. Unfortunately, as I was nearing the top, my arms became completely worthless. I tried to hold on to a rock and say some prayers, but instead came crashing down. My last clip was far to the lower right of where I fell, so I was erratically sent swinging into a large rock.

I had no time to react, and my right knee slammed head-on into the wall, shooting a seering pain through my leg. I was lowered down, and within minutes, my knee was the size of a softball! Ouch!

I tried to swim a bit to ease the pain in the salt water, but finally succumbed to the swelling, found a nice chair in the shade, and began to ice my poor ailment. Of course, the best remedy is rest, so I spent the entire evening under a tree having a lovely little pity party with my friend Kalu, who was extremely sunburnt from the morning sun.

Today I can still barely manage to walk, as my knee is still huge-mongous, so I suppose I shall be reduced to plopping down on the sand and working on my much-needed tan. Can't think of anywhere I would rather be when getting hurt...but it is killing me seeing everyone set out to climb!

Thailand: Tonsai Beach

Well, it is now Friday...over a whole week since I flew out of L.A. and into Asia. I am finally where I feel most comfortable: Tonsai Beach. It is actually just a twenty-minute walk from Railay, but way less touristy. Most of the travelers staying here are climbers, so the vibe is extremely laid-back...plus, I am probably one of the fattest cows here, as most of the people are completely ripped out and tanned...aaaaahhhh...soon enough!

So on Wednesday morning I finally coaxed my climbing partner Andrew into leaving Railay for good. We took a boat over to Tonsai, and on the way we met another Aussie named Kalu. We began chatting it up, and after lunch, decided to all share a large bungalow. We checked into the room, then Andrew and I loaded ourselves up with our climbing gear, and took a longboat taxi to nearby Eagle Wall.

Andrew was feeling quite sore, so he simply belayed me as I climbed three routes. Unfortunately, by the third route, my hardest yet, my arms were turning to jelly as the sun was setting. Knowing that I only had a wee bit of daylight left, I switched over to an easier route, finally belaying down to the ground in the pitch black darkness of nightfall.

Coming as no surprise, I am sure, I had left my headlamp in the room. Therefore, Andrew and I slid through the jungle on our bums, trying to avoid falling off ledges or slamming into rocks. We found a trail that finally led us to a large clearing, wherupon we became completely lost. Using my little Indiglo watch as our only guide (despite the recent full moon, it can be quite dark in the middle of a very thick jungle!), we finally found the trail and soon were happy to be on the beach. After a short hike over soupy rocks (thank Heavens for low tide!), we finally arrived back in Tonsai Beach around 9:30 pm, tired, bruised, bleeding, sweaty, and most of all, famished!

Yesterday my arms were still feeling rather sore, so Kalu and I settled on a lovely day at the beach. It was extremely hot, so week took many dips in the lukewarm water to refresh ourselves. After we could stand it no longer, she went to shower while I treated myself to a lovely $7 oil massage.

After the massage, Kalu and I plopped ourselves into lounge chairs at a beachside bar and watched the sunset. All around us, other climbers were unwinding from their day by juggling on the beach, tossing around frisbees, or lounging in hammocks...we were even amused by a fellow base-jumping from atop a nearby cliff!

Today we all slept in before heading over to Railay for some easy climbing. Andrew and I served as not-so-perfect climbing instructors for our friend Kalu. I climbed about three routes before I let the heat get the best of me...I am thinking a long hard day of climbing tomorrow is in order!

Thailand: Railay Beach

Friday morning I awoke feeling refreshed after a long sleep. I took a taxi to the Phuket marina, and by 8:30 am had perched upon a nice, hard spot on the stern of a ferry bound for Railay Beach near Krabi town. After unloading most of the passengers at Ao Nang, we finally arrived in Railay around 10:45 am.

After stepping ashore, I immediately bypassed the expensive West Railay and headed to the mangrove forest of East Railay. I checked into my room, a large bamboo bungalow at the edge of the forest for the pricey cost of about $12 US, at Cabana Bungalows. After dumping my bags, I changed into my swimsuit and headed to the powdery white beach in West Railay. Unfortunately, I could only stand the intense heat and sunlight for about thirty minutes...saying that I was the palest body on the beach overridden with Germans and Swedes is an understatement! I then imbibed in a lovely lunch of Seafood Phad Thai before trudging back to my bungalow in the forest.

After unsuccessfully attempting to take a catnap, I allowed the pressures of a nearby climbing wall to rouse me out of bed and into my harness. I met a nice British couple who were more than happy to belay me for a couple warmup routes up the limestone wall. After climbing, I wandered down the beach and over large boulders to watch the sunset over nearby Tonsai Beach.

After taking a nice, cold shower and trying to figure out how to flush my non-flushing toilet (I later discovered the purpose of the upturned bucket and bowl in the bathroom), I sauntered down to the Diamond Cave restaurant, where I met up with my Aussie friend Andrew for dinner. After dinner, we wandered around Railay before I finally succumbed to my weariness and plopped into bed.

Of course, sleep is still not an option for me, as I was awoken bright and early to the sounds of howling monkeys and squeaking geckos. I quickly dressed, woke Andrew, and after a breakfast of toast and fruit, was once again climbing up the Diamond Cave wall. After lunch, we wandered over to the 1-2-3 Wall for more climbing. Finally, just before sunset, we packed up our harnesses and called it a day. We checked into a new room, however not a bungalow, at the Diamond Cave Resort, which at $6 is a bargain, considering we had a pool and flushing toilets. That night, we had dinner and crashed into bed.

Sunday morning was much like Saturday...breakfast and more climbing. This time, my arms were feeling the abuse from the previous day's activities, and halfway up a difficult route, I crashed down into a wall, knees first. I decided to call it a day, and Andrew and I were soon melting into chairs watching movies in a restaurant.

Last night we tried to stay out late, but by midnight I was just another statistic as I drifted into a deep sleep.

This morning, with nothing but willpower, I pulled on my swimsuit and went to the beach. I think it's nigh time I get a tan as I feel I am blinding the other tourists! After numerous dips in the crystal blue water, I walked back over to Tonsai Beach for lunch, where I met a couple climbers. While I like Railay, I am bothered by the touristy vibe it exudes, with the various topless Europeans and too-small speedos. Tonsai is much cheaper, not to mention frequented mostly by climbers. Hopefully tomorrow I can change locales and get a room there.

Oh, and true to form, so far I have managed to lose a Nalgene water bottle and my beloved MP3 player...I wish I could say that someone stole it from me, but I have a feeling it fell victim to my walking around the beach with my backpack completely unzipped...

Thailand Arrival: Bangkok and Phuket

I made it! After a long and grueling fifteen hours of flying (well, not so bad...I watched four movies and even learned the Thai numbers), I arrived in Taipei, Taiwan for a two-hour layover. I then boarded my next plane, arriving in Bangkok around 2:00 am Thursday morning. I hopped into a taxi and went straight to my hotel, a guestroom at We-Train women's school. Unfortunately, my bright idea of not sleeping for the entire flight did nothing to ease me into a much-needed coma, as I found myself lying in bed wide-awake for hours.

I must have drifted off to sleep at some point, because around 7:00 am I awoke to the sounds of singing and drum beating wafting through the windows. From my balcony, I was blessed with an incredible view of my surroundings in the midst of the jungle. However, I did not have time to soak it all in too much, as I had an 11:30 am plane to catch!

I headed back to the airport, and after a four-hour delay, was on my flight for Phuket. Unfortunately, the delay caused me to miss the last boat for Krabi, so in the airport I met three Arab fellows who welcomingly allowed me to share the forty-minute cab ride into town.

The view outside Phulin Resort in Phuket. 


Our cab dropped us off in Patong Beach, an extremely touristy destination for Germans and other Europeans. We went for a swim in the pool, then headed into town. I imbibed in a fantastic meal of fish and papaya salsa, all for the astounding price of 0 baht, thanks to my generous new friends. After dinner, I settled into my room, and it was lights out for me around 10:00 pm.

Next stop: Krabi Town!

Last Day in the USA

Well, what a whirlwind these past two months have been! After spending a few days unpacking and getting used to the thirteen-hour time difference (as well as the intense culture shock that came as a result of southern accents, big trucks, and even bigger hair), I began temporarily working as a personal trainer at the YMCA in Valdosta, Georgia. I was wracking up overtime every week, and my hours were insane: 4:30 am to 12:00 noon Monday-Friday, with the addition of weekends. I was busy, but making some extra spending money and keeping myself from complete boredom.

I finished working on December 22nd and, along with my parents, welcomed my brother and sister and her husband home for Christmas...it was my first one home with family in four years! It felt wonderful to be home, but by that point I was chomping at the bit to get back to traveling!

I spent a few post-Christmas days with my brother in Atlanta before flying out to Los Angeles on December 28th...and this is where I've been for the last couple weeks. I've been busy everyday trying to clean out my storage room and sell most of my things...I've already donated about fifteen large boxes to Salvation Army! I am now down to about three boxes that hold my only treasures in the world...books, a lamp, silverware, and of course, a vintage fondue pot! Of course, my time here has not only consisted of work...I have managed to see many great old friends while I have been in town, and it hardly seems like over a year has gone by!

So as I write this I have less than twenty-four hours before I board my plane to Thailand. I'll be connecting in Taipei, Taiwan tomorrow evening before finally arriving in Bangkok at 1:00 am Thursday morning. Total travel time: 21 HOURS!!! Yee-haw.

SOUTHEAST ASIA......HERE I COME!!!!!!