Vietnam: Motorcycle Diaries, Day 5 (200 km)

After a lovely day of rest in Sapa, we awoke this morning yet again to the sounds of heavy raindrops on the roof. Once again, it let up as we were preparign for our 10:00 am departure. Fortunately, Erin gained confidence during her Minsk driving session yesterday, so once I got us safely out of town, she took over, and soon I was the one praying in the back!

Miraculously, Erin got us to our lunch stop alive and in one piece (I do not know how she seemed so cool, calm, and collected while I was driving...I thought I was going to wet my pants at every suicidal, high-speed move she made!). We had another meal of Pho, this time with a strange mystery meat whose taste resembled bacon, before I gladly took the reins and drove us on to Yen Bai. About 15 km from town, just as I was realizing that this was the first full day of driving that did not involve a "hitch," I went to downshift and realized my foot was hitting air...somewhere since I was last in 3rd gear, I managed to lose the clutch pedal!

With a laugh, we rolled to a stop just outside a home where a family of about fifteen people were watching us with curious, toothless smiles. Some of the men came over, carrying babies, of course, and observed our situation. All I have to say is, I am an extremely independent person (too independent, I have been accused by several ex-boyfriends), but I do love it when a man comes in, takes charge, and saves the day! We trustingly gave one guy money before he jetted off on his motorbike, and within minutes he was back with a new pedal. The men gathered 'round our bike, and soon Erin and I were saying our farewells and heading off to Yen Bai.

We found a lovely, fancy pants hotel beside a huge lake in the country, just on the outskirts of Yen Bai, where we quickly found that we were eerily the only guests. The staff was very friendly, and after checking in, we rode into Yen Bai for dinner and to stock up on a huge box of cookies (Why, oh, why do we keep doing this to ourselves? We are such GIRLS!), which we polished off over a few games of rummy in our moldy room.

Tomorrow is our final leg of the trip, as we battle through the last 180 km into and around Hanoi.

Vietnam: Motorcycle Diaries, Day 4 (48 km)

This morning Erin and I awoke to the sound of heavy rain pattering on the roof of our guesthouse...driving Gaston is hard enough as it is, much less with the hazards that rain can wreak on twisting mountain roads! Apart from safety reasons, we were also worried that the rain would ruin the scenery of one of the highlights of our trip, a drive through Tram Ton Pass, Vietnam's highest and undisputedly most beautiful mountain pass. Fortunately, the clouds were in our favor, as the rain turned into a slight mist just as we were finishing our breakfast and preparing to don purple ponchos.

We only had 48 km to cover this morning, so we took our time to enjoy the magnificent mountain scenery, envigorating fresh air, and peaceful aura of Tram Ton Pass. It was, without a doubt, as breathtaking as we have heard and read, and we were happy to experience it with no agenda or bad weather. We even took the time to set up a camera on the side of the road and figure out the self-timer so we could get a group photo: Erin, Gaston, and me!

We arrived in Sapa just in time for a lunch of Pho before checking into the Queen Hotel. We are way up on the 5th floor, prime location for admiring the enchanting scenery of the mountains and valleys surrounding us. After dropping our bags into the room and changing into some clean clothes (you can imagine how filthy we are at this point, wearing the same grungy things everyday!), we took a walk around the market in Sapa, where hundreds of hilltribe women and girls walked the streets selling silver bracelets and bangles, as well as blankets and scarves.

After our walk through the market, we decided it was time to give Erin some driving practice on the motorbike. After a popped wheelie that almost threw me off the back of Gaston, I patted her on the back and told her where to find me. As she set off on Sapa's roads, grinding the gears shamelessly, I walked down to the lake in the center of town for a perch on a bench. Within minutes, I was approached by two adorable little girls, no older than three years old, trying to sell their woven bracelets. Of course, I could not resist, handing over my money with a warm smile.

Erin made it back from her joyride unharmed, and after a hot shower, we went out for dinner. All I wanted was a sandwich, as my body could not take another bowl of soup or rice! After dinner, we played a few games of darts before watching a movie in our hotel lobby. The best part of our room at the Queen Hotel? The fireplace! I spent about thirty minutes getting the thing started, but if I do say so myself, it was the biggest, baddest fire in Sapa tonight!

Tomorrow we have another long day on the back, as we head halfway back to Hanoi.

Vietnam: Motorcycle Diaries, Day 3 (254 km)

This morning around 8:30 am, after gassing up, Erin and I were aboard the Minsk and heading out of Dien Bien Phu. It was another gorgeous day through the hills and valleys of Northwest Vietnam. Fortunately, the roads were much better on today's journey. We continuously passed elaborately dressed hill tribe women carrying heavy loads, children with their school uniforms and bright red woven bags, and men hearding buffalo and cows across our path. We did an extremely tiring long haul at the beginning of the day, going about five hours straight before finally stopping for lunch in the small village of Pa So around 1:00 pm.

After lunch (I finally gave up my month-long vegetarian plan and had my first meat, which is not making my stomach very happy right now!), we continued to head north to our intended destination, Sapa. Unfortunately, the roadside kilometer markers and my map began making less sense, and soon we found ourselves 15 km off the main course and in the village of Muong So, forcing us to turn around and take a different route (in which we came mere millimeters from hitting a dog!). As we were climbing up a large mountain just twenty kilometers from the upcoming town of Lai Chau, Gaston stopped dead still (we had to name our bad boy..."No one's slick as Gaston, No one's quick as Gaston, No one's neck's as incredibly thick as Gaston's"...Beauty and the Beast...?).

I was certain it was the spark plug, so after managing to figure that out, Gaston still would not crank! Finally, Erin tried to convince me that we were out of gas (I refused to believe it!), and we coasted back down the hill, all the way to Pa So. We filled the tank up with petrol, and sure enough, we were back on our way. Unfortunately, we had wasted three hours and were right where we had begun at lunch. It was then that we concluded there was no way we would make it to Sapa tonight.

We finally coasted through Lai Chau, and about an hour later, just as the sun was beginning to dip behind the mountains, we arrived in Tam Duong, an extremely remote village where the townspeople excitedly greeted us with smiles, waves, and shouts of "Hello" as we roared into the village center. We found a lovely guesthouse on the main road, made friends with the engaging owner, and found a place serving the most scrumptious Pho soup I have ever tasted! Finally! After dinner and a quick wander through the now-deserted town (it was only 7:00 pm), Erin and I crashed into bed, and were asleep by 9:00 pm.

Vietnam: Motorcycle Diaries, Day 2 (285 km)

Well, we made it through Day 2, but this time there are a few scratches and scrapes, and our bike is not very happy with us...but let me get to that later! We started our morning with a breakfast of muffins and bread from the town bakery before dragging our sore bodies onto the Minsk for another fun-filled day through the mountains. We departed Moc Chau around 8:30 am, and were soon gliding up hills, around curves, and down steep inclines with ease (my skills have most definitely improved...the grinding gears are heard much less frequently now, thank you very much!).

It was a gorgeous, sunny day in rural Vietnam, and the hill tribe people were out if full force. We passed hordes of brilliantly-dressed women and children walking along the road on their way to and from working in the fields. Most of the tribespeople we saw today were from the Black Thai tribe, with their black hair twisted atop their heads, colorful long-sleeved tops, and vibrant skirts. We waved at everyone we passed, and their shy faces quickly turned to excited glows as they waved back to us. Seeing Erin and I was seemed like a treat to these people, as very few foreigners come through these areas. We have not even seen a foreigner on the road at all!

Our easy ride soon took a turn for the worst when we entered a construction site. Apparently, the Vietnamese believe in completely knocking out an entire 5 km stretch of road before repairing it...that meant a vast expanse of thick yellow dust, large boulders, and pure luck to get one through it without toppling over. Of course, luck was not on our side, as we tipped over while stopping for a break. No harm done...just lots of dust! Eventually, driving in first gear got us through the worst of this highway wasteland, and soon we were gliding on somewhat-paved roads. We stopped for lunch in the town of Son La...for tomatoes, rice, and tofu of course, before heading back out for some more riding. By this point, our bums were completely numb, and every muscle in my body was aching, but real bikers are tough, so we can pretend to be tough, too!

As we were rounding one of the hairpin mountain curves just above the town of Tuan Giao, we came face to face with a speeding semi-truck! I slowed down and veered onto the side of the road to avoid getting smashed...unfortunately, the ground was very uneven, and the next thing I knew, I was lying on my left side on the pavement, with Erin behind me and the heavy, roaring Minsk on top of us! I knew I was okay, and I could hear Erin talking to herself behind me, so I could not help but immediately burst out in uncontrollable laughter (1/2 nervous habit, 1/2 seeing the humor in our situation). We shoved the bike off of us, I turned it off, and after dusting off our clothes (amazed that we got through that mini-pavement slide without even putting holes in our pants!), we assessed the bike.

Well, amazingly (and miraculously!), the bike took the brunt of the fall, as the back tailight was ripped off, the clutch pedal was bent in half, and lone rearview mirror was smashed, and the alignment was completely askew. Somehow, we managed to start the bike, and I awkwardly guided it back down the mountain to Tuan Giao, where we quickly got the alignment righted and the pedal replaced before heading off on our final 80 km to Dien Bien Phu.

We arrived in Dien Bien just before sunset, checked into the first guesthouse we saw, and wearily found a restaurant for dinner. What a day! Well, I definitely learned some things about driving a motorbike today, and one of them is to never go off the side of the road! Tomorrow morning we will wake up bright and early and attempt to make the long 300 km journey to Sapa.

Vietnam: Motorcycle Diaries, Day 1 (200 km)

When Erin and I first arrived in Vietnam, we knew we wanted to do something adventurous, something daring, something off the travelers' trail...just two weeks later, straddling a 125cc Russian Minsk motorbike, with a heavy bag strapped on back, twisting around treacherous mountain roads and through hill-tribe villages, we are doing just that!

I have quickly concluded that I have no business whatsoever driving this hog of a bike (driving a four-wheeler as a kid and two recent spins on a wimpy scooter should not give me the "experienced motorbiker" label, but it does give me a strange [albeit false] sense of security!). Miraculously, however, Erin and I made it through Day 1 of our Northwest Vietnam motorcycle adventure without so much as a scratch (on our bodies, at least!).

After a nervous breakfast, we headed over to Cuong's Bike Shop in the Old Quarter of Hanoi. Due to money, safety, and Erin's fear of committing accidental suicide, we agreed to nix the "2 Bad Girls, 2 Bad Bikes" plan and instead share a bike, with yours truly in the pilot seat. After a quick tutorial on motorbike maintenance and repair (to which I pretended to listen...I am Evil Knieval, not a mechanic!), we loaded our massive leather saddle-like bag onto the seat, donned our helmets and Barbie face masks, and I climbed onto the bike alone. Our guy promised to escort us through the madness of Hanoi, so with Erin on his bike and me following (with great fear, might I add!), we began the hectic journey through morning rush-hour traffic.

Words cannot describe traffic in Hanoi (our guidebook strongly recommends travelers not to drive a motorbike here), but the deafening horns, choking black exhaust fumes, and rows upon rows of motorbikes, cars, and trucks narrowly missing daring pedestrians were the least of my worries! My problem was how to drive the danged thing! The Minsk is a monster, as I soon discovered, and way out of my league. This big daddy sits high off the ground, requires a strong kick start, weighs as much as about four of me, and has no gauges or dials indicating speed, gas, km/h, or even what gear it is in! Sputtering alone through Hanoi, and after about five or six times stalling out, I began to sense that I was in way over my head...before I knew it, however, Erin was climbing on back of the bike, and with a wave to our escort, we began barelling west on Highway 6...no turning back now!

Fortunately, once we left the edge of town, traffic began to lighten, and I could finally focus less on getting creamed by another car and more on getting a feel for the Minsk and its transmission. Just as I was beginning to relax, a woman started pushing her bicycle across the road right in front of us...well, I did my best to avoid her with killing Erin and I, and that meant clipping her back tire! She was angry, but we kept going!

We were soon coasting through the beautiful green rice paddies and small shops and homes of the countryside. We stopped for lunch in the town of Hoa Binh for a meal of tofu, tomatoes, rice, and soup. Soon, we were back on the road, and as we began our first hill climb of the trip, our bike broke down. Already? Now, I have never lived in the mountains, so I am completely clueless how to drive through the ups and downs and what gears are necessary, but I could not believe I had already ruined the bike. Fortunately, a kind man came by and discovered that our gas tube was leaking...he tied on a wire to rig it back into place, and soon we were heading back up the hill with no problems.

Of course, I spent most of our driving through the hills completely grinding out all the gears...talent takes practice, and I am glad to have such a rugged machine on which to! As we were just coming over a large hill, we drove straight into a wall of dense, gray fog that lasted for over an hour. It was so thick inside this cloud that we could barely see ten feet in front of us...we kept our high beam on and honked our horn throughout the drive. Also, it was freezing cold! I asked Erin to lean against me as we trudged through, using body heat to keep us warm...I felt like the scene from Dumb and Dumber! We were definitely not dressed for this cold mountain air! Finally, we broke through our foggy prison, finally arriving in the small town of Moc Chau around 5:15 pm.

We found a dingy guesthouse to crash for the night before a dinner of our standard Com (rice) Pho meal...tofu, tomatoes, and rice...it is the only thing we know how to order! Well, we have 200 km under our belt, and so far so good...tomorrow we have a long drive to Dien Bien Phu, almost 300 km!

Vietnam: Halong Bay

Yesterday morning, Erin and awoke to yet another dreary day in Hanoi, and after breakfast, we boarded our mini-bus bound for the famous Halong Bay. After a three-hour ride, we arrived at the port, where we climbed on our "junk," our new home for the next two days. The day was a rainy, cloudy one, so any chance of seeing any of the massive limestone cliffs jutting out of the water was minimal. Fortunately, the clouds eventually subsided, and we watched the cliffs roll by from the warmth of the junk's dining room.

Having sailed through Glacier Bay in Alaska aboard my cruise ship home a few years ago, I must say that Halong Bay left much to be desired. I snapped a few photos, and within minutes found more excitement reading "The Da Vinci Code" than viewing the sights of Halong Bay. It is such a shame to be jaded to such beautiful sights, but I have to admit, I have seen better!

We had a quick exit from the boat (and my book!) to walk through a massive cave located in the midst of our sailing route. We wandered through, snapped a few photos, and With our "been there, done that" attitude (Erin's from Canada, so she was feeling the same scenery snobbery that I was), we were more than happy to climb back onto our warm boat. I delved back into my novel, not even paying attention to the fact that we later stopped for our boat's passengers to imbibe in a cold swim/kayak around the freezing waters of the bay.

We did manage to tear ourselves from our cabin for a wonderful, freshly-prepared Vietnamese dinner. We even had a group rummy game going with various members of the junk's crew, who all happened to be in love with Erin. Finally, around 9:00 pm, I answered the call of old age (I am 26, after all!) and the fact that my last week has involved very little sleep, and headed off to bed.

This morning, Erin and I awoke to another dreary day on Halong Bay, had breakfast with our fellow passengers, and I stuck my nose back into my book. We spent $30 on this trip, and even though I should have felt cheated, I was more than happy to have an excuse to do nothing but read and sleep for the two days. Finally, around 11:30 am, we arrived back at the port, had lunch, and around 2:00 pm we were back in Hanoi.

Upon arriving back in the Old Quarter, we checked back into the same hotel before visiting Cuong's bike shop, the very company that is foolishly entrusting us to two Russian Minsk motorbikes for our next adventure...a solo ride hundreds of kilometers through the northwest Vietnamese countryside. We practiced riding these hefty, cumbersome bikes through the hectic streets of Hanoi (Erin managed to get lost), discovering the glaring differences from the wimpy Hondas we have grown accustomed to riding. We then bought a few must-haves for our daring trip, including "Barbie" face masks, some ugly tennis shoes for me, and ponchos. Right now, I have spent the last few hours convincing Erin that we will not, in fact, die on our six-day motorbike trip (even though I do not truly believe it myself) and updating my blog. We leave in the morning...we will probably end up sharing a single bike, as Erin somehow believes I am a much better motorbike driver than she is.

At any rate, if for some reason this blog is not updated by April 2nd, send out the search parties, because Erin and I are either dead or in vegetative states...Here's to hoping the next six days, with me behind the handlebars, are a safe and enjoyable time!!!

Vietnam: Hanoi

Erin and I caught the 1:30 bus Wednesday afternoon for Hue, and upon arrivang a 5:15 pm, we agreed to try to catch the next bus for Hanoi. Luckily, we made it to the tour office just in time to hop onto the 5:30 pm bus. We had originally planned to stay in Hue for a night, but due to unforseeable circumstances (ie. our tailoring fiascos in Hoi An), we were a day over in our itinerary. Therefore, we had a quick "look-see" of Hue from the windows of our bus, and soon we were barrelling north to Hanoi.

After the many hours of lost sleep (and after checking to make sure my bus seat reclined properly), it was easy to fall asleep, and by 9:00 pm it was lights out for me. After a not-so-deep but surprisingly comfortable sleep, we arrived in Hanoi yesterday morning, my birthday, at 6:00 am. We quickly discovered the obvious differences between the friendly local folk of the south and the people here...while searching for a guesthouse, we were approached by a determined motorbike driver trying to sell his "hotel". After politely dismissing him, he turned to us with red eyes, saying "Fu** You!!!". Erin and I were appalled, to say the least. Just two minutes later, the exact same thing happened with a different motorbike driver. Maybe "Fu** You" means "Happy Birthday" in Vietnamese.... hmm....all we could do was laugh at the poor, lost motorbike-driving souls.

Erin and I finally found a cheap place, dropped our bags, and took long naps. We later wandered around the Old Quarter of Hanoi, which I quickly fell in love with, despite its angry residents. That evening, we met up with David and Anna-Karin, the two Swedish pals we met in Cambodia, and we, along with three of their new-found friends, played cards in their room before setting out for a fun night out to truly celebrate my birthday.

Unfortunately, we were unable to find much of a nightlife in Hanoi. Our first try, the "New Century Nightclub," turned us away because our traveler flip-flops were out of dress code. We finally found the "Funky Monkey," a dive bar that closed as soon as we arrived. After a quick "Happy Birthday" serenade from my friends, Erin and I admitted defeat and headed back to our hotel.

This morning, we slept in before joining David and Anna Karin for a taxi ride across town to Hanoi's water park...Unfortunately, the swimming season has yet to begin, as the park was closed down. Instead of pulling a Griswald, but still determined to swim, we took the cab back to a hotel, where we were dismayed to learn that a day's swim in the cold pool would cost us $5 each. Finally, we all headed back to the lake by the Old Quarter, where we tossed around a frisbee (numerous curious locals stopped by for a stare, photos, and even a few tries with this crazy invention) and a quick workout.

After our play in the park, we all went out for dinner, followed by ice cream, (even though a cold drizzle had begun to fall on Hanoi) and cheap drinks. Finally, we bade a final farewell to our Swedish friends in anticipation of tomorrow's trip...a visit to Halong Bay. I must say, celebrating my birthday in Hanoi has been quite a disappointment, but fortunately our fun night in Hoi An a few days ago was enough to make my entrance into year 26 most memorable!

Vietnam: Early Birthday Bonanza

Surprisingly, after only two hours of sleep, I was up and at it around 9:30 Monday morning. I went to the different tailor shops, only to find that not only were none of my outifts (or shoes) ready, but they were all miserably far from what I had pictured. Patiently, I endured more fittings before once again renting a bicycle and escaping to the beach.

That evening, after yet another disappointing fitting (this time at the actual seamstresses' building), Erin and I went out for dinnerwith Max and a French Canadian couple we met in Laos. After dinner, Erin and Max called it a night, and we ran into the British guys we had met the previous night. Together, we took a "party bus," complete with its own karaoke machine, back for another night at the Dream Bar. We found a quiet table and spent the evening chatting about the ubiquitous lady-boys, soccer (I mean, football), and traveling before calling it a night and heading home.

After breakfast yesterday morning, I went in for yet another unsuccessful clothes fitting. (Erin and I were originally planning to leave for Hue on Tuesday, but thatnks to various tailoring emergencies, we had to push our plans back a day). I then rode bikes with three of the English lads, Greg, Dave, and Oscar, back to the beach, a welcome source of peace in the hectic and chaotic world of tailor-made clothing.

Eventually, Erin and the American boys joined us, and together we spent the afternoon tossing around a frisbee, showing off our football/soccer skills, and holding various beach contests, complete with handstands, breakdancing, and a mini-triathlon (which I miserably lost...I blame it on a swimsuit malfunction!). It was a wonderful day...a perfect way to begin my 26th birthday celebration.

That's right...March 23 is my birthday, but seeing as I was already surrounded by the people I love, I decided to celebrate my big day a bit early. Therefore, after saying goodbye to the Brits, who were heading down to Nha Trang, Erin and I, along with my American buddies and the French Canadians Bea and David, all went out for dinner, complete with a horrendous game of pool, a big fat tofu burger, and even a birthday pancake with a candle. After stuffing ourselves, we headed back to our hotel for a relatively wild night playing cards and enjoying our final night together.

This morning, red-eyed and exhausted, I went in for my final clothing fittings...of course, it was all a disaster, but I sucked it up to bad luck, crammed my horrible new clothes into my backpack, and had lunch with all of our friends. Soon, we will board the 1:30 pm bus bound for Hue.

Vietnam: Hoi An

After having breakfast in a fog following my sleepless twelve-hour bus ride, I wearily climbed into bed for a nap. After waking feeling much more refreshed, Erin and I ventured out into he streets to get a taste of what Hoi An is famous: tailor-made clothing. We were recommended to visit Impressions, a particular shop near our hotel, and before I knew it, I had designed two outfits, chosen fabric, and swiped my flaggling Visa for $65. Little did I know, in my excitement, that this was just the beginning of a tailor-made nightmare!

After all the days's activities, Erin and I were wiped out, so we decided to have another girls' night in. After a few failed attmepts at watching a DVD in our room, and vegging out on entirely too much junk food (which, unfortunately, is becoming an all-too-common tradition for us here in Vietnam, as I am beginning to discover in my waistline!), Erin and I fell asleep.

Yesterday morning, I headed to the Impressions shop for my first fitting. I tried on the dress, along with an 80s outfit-thing I designed, reminding myself throughout the ordeal that this was only an initial fitting. Afterwards, I popped into a shoe shop to get fitted for some fancy sandals before finding myself in yet another clothing shop, designing a silk top. Finally, I forced myself away from the shops and onto a rented bicycle for the 5km peddle to the beautiful Cua Dai beach, what I consider the nicest beach I have seen in Vietnam. On the way back to town, I passed Mike, Max, and Evan, the American boys I have continued to run into while traveling (it was not a coincidence, as we have been e-mailing and planning for awhile to meet up in Hoi An). We made plans to meet later, I went through a more distressing second clothing fitting, and by 6:30 pm we were showered and the boys were at our place to take us to dinner.

Mike's parents were in town, so the boys, Erin, and I were unexpectedly and kindly treated to a delicious dinner beside Hoi An's riverfront. It was nice to spend an evening with Mr. and Mrs. Maziar...even though it was my first time meeting them, I thoroughly enjoyed being in the company of "parents," not to mention parents from Georgia. It actually was quite comforting to be around them in all the craziness of traveling!

After dinner, we kids said goodnight to the Maziar's and hungout at our hotel for a bit. Eventually, we headed to the Dream Bar on the edge of town, where we met tons of interesting new people, including a group of lovely English guys. Soon enough, we headed back to town, where I played a sad game of Texas Hold 'Em with the Brits. After losing out of the game, Greg, one of the Brits, and I took a scenic walk, finding ourselves by the riverfront just as the sun was peeking over the horizon. We wandered through the central market, taking in the sights, sounds, and smells with awe as the Vietnamese scurried about, preparing fo the long day ahead. We eventually left the hustle and bustle of the awakening market and found a bench by the water to watch the sun rise amidst the clouds of coral, pink, and blue.

Finally, exhausted, Greg managed to score us a free motorbike ride back to our respective hotels (the driver took pity on his broken flip-flop), we said goodnight, and I climbed into bed around 7:30 am.

Vietnam: Nha Trang

After a six-hour bus journey, we arrived in Nha Trang just after lunch on Thursday. We searched in earnest for a cheap hotel, finally settling into a $5 room near the beach. It was a dreary afternoon, so after a long walk that took me to a much-needed ATM, I found a partly-cloudy spot on the beach for some R'n'R. Later that evening, Erin and I had dinner and then hung out at one of the local dives, where we ran into several people we have met alot the Vietnam traveler route. By the the end of the night, we were busy dancing at the Sailing Club.

This morning we slept in, eventually donning our swimsuits and making our way back to the beach. After a bit of deliberation, we decided to scrap our previous night's plans of sticking around Nha Trang and attending a Full Moon party, and instead move on to Hoi An. Therefore, at 6:30 pm, we were boarding our first Vietnam overnight bus.

Unfortunately, the bus was anything but comfortable VIP. The lights were turned off around 8:00 pm, insinuating that it was bedtime. Not knowing what else to do, I popped a sleeping pill before discovering with horror that I possessed the only seat in the bus that did not recline. Therefore, I spent the next ten hours sitting straight up with a Vietnamese man's head in my lap. To say that I was exhausted beyond belief upon arriving in Hoi An this morning is an understatement. Apparently, Erin and I spent quite a long time with our rucksacks, trying to find a cheap room. I cannot say I remember much of it!!

Vietnam: Lang Bian Mountain

I awoke this morning to the sounds of birds chirping outside my window, and a brief peek through the curtains confirmed that yesterday's storms had made way for a sunny and cool Wednesday. Erin and I quickly got dressed, had breakfast, and hopped on our sporty green rented motorbike. I took the reins first, and we were soon happily motoring out of Dalat and into the beautiful surrounding countryside.

We rode for about fifteen kilometers out of town to Lat Village, the base of Lang Bian Mountain. We spent the next four hours hiking up, and then down, the steep terrain (half of it quite slippery, thanks to yesterday's downpour). Along the way, we passed wild horses grazing, beautiful views, and very few people. It was an extremely peaceful hike, and quite a welcome change from both the steamy beaches and city hustle.

Upon reaching the bottom of Lang Bian, Erin and I had lunch before climbing back onto the motorbike for a ride through more of the Central Highlands of Vietnam. For a couple hours, we sped through the winding country roads, taking in the beauty of the green rice paddies, sparkling lakes, and rolling hills. As the skies darkened and a light sprinkle began to nip our faces, we decided to head back to Dalat.

Once in town (and after leaving the rain clouds behind us), we set off in search of some hot coffee, but not before managing to put a hole in our back tire (I was not driving this time!!). We quickly got it patched for about thirty cents, drank some coffee, and finally came back home. We quickly took showers, watched some MTV (we are officially addicted...it is amazing what a treat television can be while traveling!), and had dinner at our favorite restaurant in Dalat.

Now I am stuck in the internet cafe, Night #2 of finally putting photos on my blog...uploading photos is a very time-consuming and frustrating task, but it is my fault for waiting so long to do it. If I do not have a nervous breakdown tonight, then tomorrow morning Erin and I are sadly leaving the serenity and chilly climate of Datang and heading back to the beach, a five-hour ride northeast to Nha Trang.

Vietnam: Dalat

Yesterday morning, Erin and I said goodbye to Mui Ne and our buddy Craig and boarded a bus bound for Dalat, a "kitschy" mountain town in Vietnam's Central Highlands, known for its cool climate and beautiful scenery. The road was a beautiful peruse through massive white and red sand dunes as we left the coast, followed by the winding turns through the hills and forests. We finally reached Dalat around 1:00 pm, found an enourmous room at the Peace Guesthouse with amazing views of the hilly city for just $5, and set out for lunch.

Within minutes of arriving, Erin and I had fallen in love with Dalat. It is an incredibly beautiful town full of lovely colonial buildings, colorful and quirky homes and apartments, and green grass, trees, and flowers stretching as far as the eye can see. After filling our tummies with Pho (I still have yet to find the perfect pho!), Erin and I went for a walk around Xuan Huang Lake in the center of town before wandering into an internet cafe, where I foolishly and reluctantly checked on my bank balance. The temperature had quickly dropped throughout the evening to the point of chilly, so after dinner, we decided to have a much-needed "Girls' Night In," complete with a bag of cookies, a can of Pringles, and MTV. Around midnight, with both of us doubled over with stomach-aches, my hair in French braids, and too many music videos behind us, we fell asleep.

Erin and I awoke this morning to the sounds of heavy raindrops splattering against our windows. Our plan to rent a motorbike and hike Lang Bian Mountain was foiled, so we decided to take a wet tour through the city. We only got as far as a few doors from our guesthouse, where I was drawn into a salon. During last night's Girl Fest, I decided that I can no longer go with three-inch dark roots. Therefore, ignoring such danger signs as the staff knowing zero English and the fact that I am probably the only blonde that has ever entered the salon, I gutsily sat down in a chair. Via hand signals and hand-drawn pictures, I communicated what I wanted: platinum blonde hair with blue streaks underneath. (Hey, I am traveling, do not have a real job, and am going through a quarter-life crisis as I near the old age of 26...I need a fun hairstyle!). Four hours later, my $35 hairstyle was (and still is) an unnatural shade of yellow, but the accompanying blue streaks are fantastic.

After my mini-makeover, Erin and I trotted through the rain in geeky orange ponchos to the "Crazy House," a funky little "Alice in Wonderland" guesthouse designed by a quirky Vietnamese architect. Upon exiting the house, the rain was down to a slight drizzle. We are hoping this is a good sign, and that tomorrow we will have sunshine so that we can attempt to hike the mountain!

Vietnam: Mui Ne

Erin and I decided to purchase an "Open Bus Ticket" through Vietnam for $22. The ticket will take us north from Saigon to Mui Ne Beach, Dalat, Nha Trang Beach, Hoi An, Hue, and finally to Hanoi. This morning, Erin, Craig, and I boarded the early bus and headed to the sunny beaches of Mui Ne.

We found a beautiful bungalow right on the beach for $10, and after a quick lunch, we were soon in our swimsuits on the sand. We were hoping to rent surfboards and try the waves in Mui Ne; unfortunately, there was a horrible beach break. The winds were extremely strong, however, which made for perfect conditions for the hundreds of windsurfers and kitesurfers that dotted the watery landscape. We did find activity in the form of a walk on the beach, followed by serious relaxation in lounge chairs under the sun's late-afternoon rays.

That night we were exhausted from all of our traveling, so after a tasty dinner, we crashed in bed early. Saturday was just as uneventful as Friday, consisting of nothing more than lounging around in our swimsuits all day, tossing around a frisbee, and swimming in the sea. That night we ran into Chris, a fellow we all met in Saigon (making for a welcome addition of testosterone for Craig), and we had dinner, followed by cards, followed by dancing to the worst tunes known to man at Jibes, quite possibly the cheesiest beachside bar in Vietnam.

Today was another day of relaxing on the beach. Craig and I realized mid-afternoon that we were both low on funds, so we decided to rent a motorbike to take us to the nearest ATM in nearby Phan Thiet. I drove us there, then trusted Craig to get us back...this involved loads of trust, actually, considering this guy has never driven a car (except for the two practical driving tests he failed as a teenager). Amazingly, he was pretty good, so we whipped around the area for awhile before finally having to return the bike and meet the others for dinner.

Well, it seems like we have had enough of the beach. Tomorrow morning Erin and I will say goodbye to the sand, sea, Craig, and fresh seafood as we leave for Dalat.

Vietnam: Saigon

Erin and I awoke bright and early yesterday at 5:30 am, ate breakfast, and watched half a movie in our guesthouse common area while waiting for the bus to arrive. By 8:00 am, we were finally on our way to Vietnam. The bus was pretty full when we boarded, so Erin found a seat in the back, and I squeezed in the front next to a lovely English guy, Craig.

Except for the ever-so-thrilling "find the nearest bush" bathroom breaks, the journey out of Cambodia was a walk in the park compared to my journey into the country. The bus was nice(ish), the roads were paved, and all animals kept out of our path. We reached the Cambodia border town of Bavet around lunchtime, relaxing and imbibing in some soup before realizing that we were supposed to walk across the border. Immigration was a breeze, and soon we were boarding our bus in Moc Bai, Vietnam and heading to Saigon, aka Ho Chi Minh City.

Upon arriving in Saigon, Erin, Craig, Arlene (another friend we picked up on the bus ride) and I wandered around aimfully through the central backpackers' area, Pham Ngu Lao, before finally settling into a gigantic room with three beds, two showers, great views, and cable television, all for the satisfying price of $9 a night. We quickly showered and Erin, Craig, and I set off in search of Vietnamese Pho, only to be disappointed by less-than-average soup...now it is my goal to find the perfect pho while I am here, even if it means slurping it down twice a day!

After dinner, we met up with Arlene at a nearby pub, where we also were excited to run into our Swedish friends Anna-Karin and David. We played some pool before heading to a massive (and strangely empty) "honky tonk" bar, where we girls were served stuffed tomatoes in honor of "Woman's Day". Craig and I eventually said goodbye to the group and headed to another establishment, where we made friends with various locals. Finally, around 4:00 am, we headed back to the room...just in time for Craig to catch some live soccer on the telly and for me to fall asleep.

Today was a nice day of sightseeing around town. We slept in, had some lunch, and embarked on a walking tour of Saigon. We wandered through the central market for a bit, where I bought a beaded handbag (because every girl needs one of those while backpacking!). We eventually made it to the main attraction: The War Remnants Museum, a depressing group of buildings that houses Vietnam War relics, including artillery pieces and aircraft, prisoner cages, and thousands of photos depicting the atrocities the innocent people of Vietnam suffered. One photo in particular made me cry: two little boys gunned down on a country road by U.S. military men. Seeing that made me so ashamed of our country's actions during the war.

Just after sunset, I gave Erin and Craig a kick-butt workout in the park (Craig dipped out early due to a "stomachache") before we all showered and went out for an Italian dinner. After dinner, while sitting at a table outside, a little boy came up and began to massage my shoulders. He was soon chased away by the restaurant owner, but I ran after him and gave him some money as thanks for his job well done. A few hours later, he came by asking for food...I could not resist, so hand-in-hand we walked to a soup vendor and I bought him some dinner. He later came back for "Coca-Cola," to which I had to tell him to scram!

Tomorrow morning we are headed to Mui Ne Beach for some sun, sand, and hopefully, surf!

Cambodia: Deep Thoughts

Boy beside the moat.

Well, my time in Cambodia was much shorter than what I anticipated, but it was definitely enough time to see most of the country's major hot spots, experience the culture, and witness rural life. For such a geographically small country, Cambodia definitely has much to offer, from spending hours upon hours wandering aimlessly and in awe through Angkor Wat, to the educational aspects of learning about the atrocities suffered by the people during this country's history.

Traditional Dance show in Siem Reap.

The rumors of Cambodia having the worst roads in the world are definitely true. I do not believe that the potholed, dirt paths should even deserve the honor of being called roads! However, the bus drivers barrell down these trails as if they were on L.A.'s 405, honking at and swerving toward any poor living being that dares to come into their path. Also, many of the automobiles have the steering wheel on the right side; however, the road rules (if there really are any) state that cars should drive on the right side, making for some serious blind spots.

Through a doorway at Angkor Wat.

The people of Cambodia are certainly the friendliest Southeast Asians, in my humble opinion. They are always smiling and happy, even though most of them have been through unthinkable horrors. Unfortunately, the tell-tale signs of the tragedies of landmines are ubiquitous, as seen from the hundreds of people with missing legs and arms. I have heard that as many as fifty people a month are killed or injured by landmines! We were all told that just stepping onto the side of the road during a bus break could be fatal. Many of the poor victims beg for money in the streets of Siem Reap and Phnom Penh; others refuse to beg, instead finding creative ways to make money, such as playing instruments or making handicrafts.

Two more victims of the Khmer Rouge.

Landmine victims are not the only ones who beg in the streets of Cambodia...I wish the government would step up their efforts (if there are any) and financially help the people. Women sit on the side of the road with their babies all day long, and dirty children run around begging while their parents lie in wait on a side street to collect the earnings. Of course, many people sell various wares, especially books, candy, and toiletries in the cities, and hair "threading", massages, and manicures on the beach.

Dancing Ladies at Angkor Wat.

The shopping in Cambodia is not much to write home about, but who can leave the country without picking up a "Danger: Landmines!" t-shirt? Other tourist buys include scarves and jewelry. As for food, things are much similar to Laos, as seen in the baguettes and fruit that are always easily bought on the side of the road. Cambodia's one claim to fame is the "Amok Fish," which was a greasy meal of fish in sauce.

Erin and I at the Tomb Raider wat. 

Once especially surprising aspect of Cambodia was the high cost of travel! We found the hotels to be quite expensive, as well as the food, drinks, and even bottled water! The main currency in Cambodia is the US Dollar, and all the ATMs spit out crisp$50 bills! I do not know how this works or what kind of agreement the US has with Cambodia, but dealing with dollars sure makes keeping track of how much money one is spending so much easier!

Headed out for a big night in Phnom Penh.

Our visit was quite short here in Cambodia, but we had a good time and felt like it was the perfect length to get a feel for the country. Our 18-hour bus ride from hell gave us a nail-biting tour of most of the eastern part of the country and an insight into rural living, we spent two days wandering through Angkor Wat, poked around the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng prison in Phnom Penh, and even managed to soak up some sun on the beaches of Sihanoukville, all in just over two weeks! We met some great people, from Al, Millie, Anna-Karin, and David of the "Hell on Wheels" gang, to our Swedish buddy Nicholas, to Cooper in Sihanoukville who is tempting me to try working in a bar for a month...do I love Cambodia enough to come back? We shall see!