Monday, June 05, 2006

India: Shimla

On Sunday night, Chris and I happily boarded the overnight train that would rescue us from the depths of Delhi and take us up north to the town of Kalka. The train roared into life around 11:00 pm, and Chris and I settled into the upper berth of the cabin we shared with an Indian family of four.

We arrived in Kalka around 5:00 am and immediately boarded the "Toy train" to Shimla. We joined a small carriage full of middle-class Indian tourists and one cabin steward for the scenic, five-hour trip along the hills and mountain ridges of the north. We were served tea and biscuits just after the train departed at 5:30 am, and around 8:00 am we imbibed in an Indian breakfast of vegetable patties, toast, jam, and tea. As we neared our destination, the hill station of Shimla, our fellow passengers grew increasingly excited, singing various Hindu songs and chatting away happily.

We arrived in Shimla in the late morning hours, and with our bags, trudged up the winding streets to the main pedestrian walkway, also known as "The Mall". We eventually reached the YMCA, a beautiful and massive building with incredible, expansive views of the town below and the surrounding mountains and hills.

We soon discovered that we had arrived in town just in time for an annual festival of music, dancing, crafts, and even the "Miss Shimla" beauty pageant. After resting in our breezy room (which I truly believe is the best one in the building!), Chris and I headed into town and mingled with thousands of Indian tourists and the occasional Western backpacker. Shimla is a popular destination for honeymooners, and it is easy to see why. The climate is perfectly cool and sunny, the views are impeccable, and the thousands of monkeys that scamper about the clean streets make for an enchanting environment. We had lunch on a rooftop terrace before making our way back to the room. That night we had a little yoga session in our room, followed by a mean game of ping-pong downstairs (I kindly let Chris win five out of six games) before wandering back into town for a late dinner.

Before coming to India, I had heard horror stories about how the local men harrass Western women...as much as I love to travel alone, I knew that this was one place that I wanted to be accompanied by someone else, particularly a male. I was thrilled to pinky swear with Chris nearly a year ago in Korea that we would make the India trip together. Some of the advice I received from other travelers was to wear a ring on my wedding finger, insinuating that I was married and not "easy". I was also told (and read) to never shake hands with an Indian man, never make eye contact, and to be prepared for much groping and grabbing.

Well, I have met loads of single female travelers while here, and they seem to not have too many problems, but I am still glad that I have Chris with me. In Delhi, I received lots of the standard brushes and hands gliding across various parts of my body, but nothing too major. However, I was shocked to find that this lovely, innocent town has provided me with loads of uncomfortable moments. I seriously cannot walk five steps without getting oodles of "undress me" eyes, kissing sounds, and my all-time favorite, the wet, sucking sound from the men here. And all of this with Chris right beside me (he claims to give these Indian molesters menacing stares, but I have yet to see them)! I just ignore it and keep walking, finding it all quite amusing, really.

On another note, I am so happy to be traveling with Chris. He was my best buddy in Korea, and I cannot think of another guy I would rather be sharing this India experience with. Unfortunately, he is very gassy, and he continues to rip up our room, internet cafes, and restaurants. I laugh everytime it happens, which only encourages him even more. He uses all the toilet paper and never buys anymore, drinks all my water, and talks about football incessantly...I would say he is your typical English bloke. But I love 'em and wouldn't trade him for the world!

So far, Shimla is turning out to be a marvelous place. There is not much to do, but it is so pleasant enjoying the temperature and the views. Hopefully we do not find ourselves staying here for too long!

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