Friday, September 01, 2006

South East Asia & India: Deep Thoughts

Well, I made it! After 220 days on the road, through eight countries in Southeast Asia, India, and the Middle East, living out of a forty-liter backpack, wearing the same clothes every day (I never want to see brown gaucho pants...or any gaucho pants, for that matter...EVER AGAIN!), and never any idea what the next day would bring, I am home!

In addition to patience lost and faith restored, here's a quick rundown of what I experienced on my journey:

3 Lonely Planet Guidebooks
1 banged-up knee
1 busted lip
3 hours lost in the dark jungle with only an Indiglo watch for light
3 attacks of athlete's foot
1 monkey bite
5 rabies shots
12 consecutive days of constipation
2 serious cases of food poisoning
14 wipeouts on a skimboard
3 gnarly waves caught on a cooler lid
1 Henna Tatoo
1 elephant ride
2 1/2 motorcycle accidents
1 intertube ride down a river
2 white water adventures
10 (at least) public potty breaks
120 hours of yoga
10 hours of meditation (ie: "What color should I dye my hair next?", "I wonder what's for breakfast?", etc.)
1 lost camera
1 found camera
5000 songs lost when my MP3 player ran away
5 days in the Middle East
1 below-freezing camping trip in the Himalayas
7 pairs of black flip-flops
1 exciting World Cup
6 blue hair streaks
1 full moon party
10 pounds lost
2 tumbles down stairs
11 sandy beaches
1 birthday (gulp...26!)
2 painful leg waxings
1 leg threading
3 hours ahead of a terrorist bombing
Nunya business dollars spent (too much)
8 sunburns
1 hitchhike ride
3 Hindi movies
1 star debut in a Bollywood film
36 heated arguments with taxi/rickshaw/tuk-tuk drivers
30 days slinging drinks in a beachside bar/club
10 1/2 books (Memoirs of a Geisha, The Beach, The Climb, The DaVinci Code, Love in the Time of Cholera, One-Hundred Years of Solitude, Are You Experienced?, Shantaram, The #1 Lady's Detective Agency, 1/2 of Holy Cow!, and A Million Little Pieces)
12 Sudoku Puzzles
334 hours on a bus
109 hours on a boat
64 hours on a plane
50 hours on a motorcycle
42 hours on a train
Unimaginable amounts of rice, coffee, meusli, chai, chapatis, pad thai, pho, baguettes, mangos, pineapple, bananas, and local whiskey

And who can believe that after all that, I am still sane...and alive? Okay, I am not going to deny that I did not go through my share of lost tempers, middle-finger flicks, and near-nervous breakdowns (picture me, in the middle of a chaotic Indian intersection, dropping my rucksack on the ground, throwing my head back, and screaming my lungs out...sounds crazy, but it actually made me feel 100 times better!). There were definitely a few times where I just wanted to go home, especially when my grandfather died and I missed the funeral. There were times where I thought I would puke if I ate another curry or soup...dreams of peanut butter, sushi, blueberry pancakes, fish tacos, fresh-baked cookies, and Cold Stone Creamery ice cream did not help matters.

I met some absolutely amazing people, from fellow backpackers, to expats, and of course to the locals. All these beautiful people, from all over the world, including Southeast Asia, UK, Sweden, New Zealand, Denmark, Australia, Canada, USA, Mexico, France, Spain, Germany, most certainly made my trip incredibly unforgettable.

There is one question I absolutely despise: "What was your favorite place?" It is a simple question that I get asked all too often. For me, there was no "favorite place." I loved every single town, village, and city, every temple, every beach, every guesthouse, and every tourist trap that I visited. Each country is completely different; each place offers something different. Thailand had the most beautiful beaches and stellar rock climbing. Laos was the place for riverside relaxing and hanging out with other lazy backpackers. Cambodia, in addition to being my home for a month (rest in peace Utopia!), had Angkor Wat. Vietnam was where I had one of the single most exhilarating and unforgettable adventures of my life: a six-day motorcycle journey through the mountains and hill tribe villages of the north with my best friend Erin. The UAE was an introduction to Islam, as well as home to the world's fastest-growing city, Dubai. And finally, India, a world of its own, with the Taj Mahal, the Himalayas, women in saris, and of course, the yoga course. I loved it all, and I would never compare or contrast any of the places!

Thank you to everyone who kept up with me these past few months through emails and my blog. I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it!

Tuesday, August 22, 2006

India: Deep Thoughts

It seems every person I have ever spoken to about India has always had very strong opinions and ideas about what it takes to travel there. When I first starting thinking about it, I was told to never travel alone, as a single female, but travel with a companion, preferably a male. So, I recruited Chris to the cause. I then heard and read (from numerous sources) that it was wise for us to wear "wedding rings" to allay thoughts that we were "boyfriend and girlfriend," meaning that I was easy. I learned how to dress, how to deal with an aggressive (or even not-so-aggressive) Indian man and how to keep innocent conversations from getting out of control. All in all, I learned tons of useful information about the "hardest travel you will ever do in your life" in India, a country that people either love or hate.


Namaste, India! Posted by Picasa

Well, all that advice flew out the window within days of arriving in Delhi. First off, having a male companion did not dissuade horny Indian men. Even with Chris right beside me, I still received lewd comments, cringe-worthy mouth sounds, and even the occassional butt grab or "accidental" bump in the crowd, which usually included a well-placed hand on my crotch or chest. Maybe if I had tried the wedding ring thing...I just felt too ridiculously silly going to such an extreme.


Moooooo-Vrooooom. Posted by Picasa

As for the advice on how to talk to Indian men, I rarely offered my hand for a handshake or looked a man in the eyes, and when the conversation turned to "Are you married?" (as it ALWAYS did!), I would always reply that I had a boyfriend (which I don't, but I had fun making up stories about where he lives, what he does, and what he looks like!), hoping this would end the conversation. Somehow, this always made it worse...even to the point of getting asked if I slept with my boyfriend. And let's not forget the man who sat down next to me on a bench, and even after I told him to go away, he felt it necessary to whip out his little friend and entertain himself for awhile. Geez...some people!

Okay, so maybe there are some Indian men out there that have been driven insane by India's rigid rules and traditions about sex before marriage, and maybe they do take it out on us Western women, because surely we are all porn stars at home. However, these few dirty men would never give me a bad enough impression of the country to the point of saying I hated India! Quite the contrary!


The great Taj Mahal. Posted by Picasa

As for traveling as a solo female in India, well, I did it! I had Chris on my side for about two weeks before he decided he needed a beach vacation in Thailand. This was probably one of the best things to happen to me...even though I am very independent and enjoy traveling alone, all the reports on India had me adamant about having a guy with me. However, I sooned learned it was not very bad at all, perhaps even less of a challenge than when I went to China alone!

The country itself was fairly easy to get around. The train system, while a bit of a dinosaur, is still very convenient and the rails are extensive. The buses were usually more comfortable than I expected, and not once did I ever sit next to a chicken or a goat, and I rode on loads of public government buses! The roads in India were surprisingly well-kept, as well.


Women in Saris. Posted by Picasa

What were my favorite places in India? Well, I would have to say I loved it all. Indeed, India is its own world in so many ways, but especially in geography. "Smelly Delhi," as it has so delicately been nicknamed, was awash with unforgettable city sights, sounds, and smells...shouting street vendors, women in saris pouring water across the streets to wash away sizzling cow patties, whistling rickshaw drivers, cows nuzzling through heaps and heaps of trash piles in the streets, rats (or were they cats?!) scampering about.


Sunrise over the Himalayas. Posted by Picasa

The Himalayas in the north were amazing. The drive up the world's second highest road through the moonscape of the massive grey, snow-capped mountains was a truly unforgettable experience. And the people up north, many of them Tibetan refugees, were the friendliest, most quiet-tempered people in the whole country, and their Buddhist warmth always made me feel welcome and comfortable.


Along the riverbank in Manali. Posted by Picasa

Rajasthan...I LOVED Rajasthan! The ubiquitous alleyway chai vendors, women in saris shopping in the ubiquitous bangle shops, men feeding McDonald's Veggie Burgers to cows on the side of the road, packs of dogs lounging in the sun. I started off my trip to the Taj Mahal, which really is a remarkable building, a representation of a man's true love. While I do not have too many great things to say about Jaipur, I was mesmerized by the Brahman culture along the bathing ghats in Pushkar. I was enchanted by the looming, bat-infested castle in Bundi. And I was soothed by the lapping of the sparkling lake and the surrounding city of Udaipur, sight of James Bond's Octopussy.


Brahman blue houses in Rajasthan. Posted by Picasa

As for the south...well, another world completely. Mumbai (Bombay), to me, could never be compared with Delhi. While it is a major city, it seemed much cleaner, much more sophisticated and cosmopolitan than Delhi. Even the cows seemed few and far between in the city of "Bollywood." Yes, and let us not forget, Mumbai is the home of my feature film debut, Kabhi Alvida Naa Kehna...even if it is only the back of my head!


Swaying palms in Goa. Posted by Picasa

While I must admit that I initially hated it, going through the yoga course was one of the best decisions of my life. For every single day for an entire month, with the dreadful Indian monsoon raging through the ashram, I woke up at 5:30 in the morning, did four hours of yoga, sat through three hours of lectures, and drank herbal teas and ate organic food, in the meantime becoming a certified yoga instructor! That month, along with the follow-up week on the beach in Goa, was the perfect, soothing ending to not only my three months in India, but also my 7 1/2 months of traveling throughout Southeast Asia.

As for the food, it was amazing. Of course, I spent the entire three months purely vegetarian, so I often imbibed in dal (lentils) and vegetable curries, such as Aloo Gobi, Paneer Palak, and Mixed Veg...some so spicy you spend more time wiping your nose than eating! And oh, the breads! How many different ways can you make bread in India? Rotis, chapatis, naan, pooris, and especially the stuffed parathas! Yum Yum! All finished up with a cold mango lassi! And the chais...a 5 rupee glass of chai from an alleyway vendor, with its curdling milk film on top and various spices, would put any $4 Starbuck's Chai to shame!


Two little Buddhist monks. Posted by Picasa

Last, but certainly not least, the people! As mentioned before, the Buddhist people up north in the Kashmir region were indeed very friendly and generous. However, this seemed to extend across the entire country of India as well, whether they were Buddhist, Sikhs, Hindus, or Christians. So many friendly people helped me when I was lost, offered me food on trains, bought me chai. I will never forget the kind family in Bundi, especially Sashi, Menu, and Chiku, who took me in and made me feel at home at the Parihar guesthouse, where "Seb Kuch Milega", or, "Everything is Possible!" And of course, my fellow travelers! Chris, who left me all alone in India, and I am happy for it, and returned just in time to go through the yoga "concentration camp" experience with me! The terrific Brits John, Stu, and Hannah, along with the wild Israelis up north. The American girls in Pushkar, who "forced" me into a much-needed day by the pool, all the guys and girls at the guesthouse in Udaipur, and of course, all my newfound friends from the yoga course, including Hayli, Cecy, Robin, Sarah, and those bad influence Irish gals!


Bathing Ghats in Pushkar. Posted by Picasa

Once again, India was truly a very different world of its own. I think it should become its very own continent! India is definitely not nearly as dangerous or difficult as many people believe! With a little, okay, with LOTS of understanding and patience, traveling through India could be one of the most rewarding experiences for a person. However, I did meet lots of people who absolutely hated it, so it is certainly not for everyone! Would I ever go back? Absolutely! I only just barely penetrated the outter crust of this amazing place in the three months I was there. I will definitely go back again, but next time, I know better than to go during the summer!

Thursday, August 17, 2006

India: Namaste!

Tuesday afternoon, after spending a bit of time on the beach laughing at the lifeguard who incessantly blew his whistle anytime someone put so much as a toe in the raging ocean water (a busload of Indian tourists drowned in the same spot just a few days ago), Hayli and I hugged Cecy goodbye and boarded a bus out of Goa. This bus took us to our next bus stop, where we had to wait a few hours (in the pouring rain, without umbrellas or shelter!) for our overnight bus to Bombay to arrive. Finally, just as dusk was beginnning to envelope us, we climbed aboard and hopped up into our shared sleeper berth.


Last overnight bus ride! Posted by Picasa

Unfortunately, we were in the very back of the bus, and that provided for one wild ride! Every little bump meant that our whole bodies were slammed into the ceiling. It was continuing to pour down the rain outside, which meant that a waterfall spewed through the windows. Needless to say, I did not get much sleep on the bus ride, but I had a smile on my face the entire journey, knowing that this would be the last overnight bus trip I would have to endure for a very long time!

We finally pulled into some strange area of Bombay around 11:00 Wednesday morning. Unsure of what to do or where to go with our bags, Hayli and I finally decided to go ahead and head to the airport. Of course, our flight was not until early Thursday morning; however, we agreed to leave our bags in storage at the airport, wander around the city all day, and then make our way back to the airport that evening in time to retrieve our bags, manage a catnap, and be ready for airport security around 3:00 am.


Dancing in the streets of Mumbai. Posted by Picasa

After dumping off our bags, Hayli and I made use of Bombay's public transportation system, first hopping on a bus, then into a train, and finally a short cab ride to Colaba (which ended up costing us a grand total of less than $1 each...a taxi ride all the way from the airport to Colaba would have cost us about $20!). Today was Operation LMS...Last Minute Shopping! Yes, I have been traveling for nearly eight months now and have had plenty of time to shop along the way, but when your life must fit inside a forty-liter rucksack, you can only carry around so much! Fortunately, I had already completed most of my "shopping for others" agenda; today was purely all about me! Yay!

Hayli and I were on a mission, and we were quite the efficient shopping duo. I, for one, knew what I wanted, and at this point of the game I am a seasoned bargaining professional, so it did not take long for me to rack up a nice collection of silk scarves, sunglasses, pashminas, earrings, handbags, and a Bollywood Star T-shirt (yes!)...the typical girlie stuff. We managed to fit in lunch, as well as a nice dinner at a gorgeous little cafe. We even got to witness a spectacular annual festival in which truckloads of young men ride around the city in search of hanging pots. They have to climb on top of each other, forming a human tower, and break the pots. It was a pretty interesting and amusing sight, especially since the rain-soaked bodies proved to be quite slippery! Finally, around 10:00 pm, bags in hand, we naively attempted public transportation again, and after a few wrong turns and bad information, be made it to the airport around midnight.


That's one slippery human tower! Posted by Picasa

By this point, it had been thirty-six hours since I had taken a shower, so I felt (and probably looked) absolutely disgusting. I hurried to the airport bathroom to take a splash bath, cleaning the cow poo off the back of my legs and trying to make myself look and smell halfway decent. Hayli and I then began "The Wait," which really did not last very long because they called us to security early due to the increased terror alert. As we were going through the first baggage screening, we were dismayed to discover that we were not allowed to take anything other than our ticket and wallet onboard...Hayli begged to take her book, and they finally agreed. Hayli and I then hugged goodbye, as she was taking a flight to London and my flight was to Frankfurt. I refused to check my purse, which only contained some snacks, my wallet, and a book or two, saying that I would see how long I could get away with it. Turns out, not very long. While I made it through all the airport security, as I was boarding my plane, they took my bag and had me dump all its contents into a plastic bag. Hey, at least I got to take everything with me, albeit not very stylishly.

The Air India flight to Frankfurt was short and sweet...perhaps because I popped my final sleeping pill just after eating the icky breakfast. I awoke just as we were preparing to land. Even though I was on the same flight that would take me (and most of my fellow passengers) on to Los Angeles, we had to deboard the plane in Frankfurt to go through security. Therefore, a few hundred of us, clutching our pathetic plastic bags, slowly filed through one metal detector and a full body search by two haughty Germans before turning a corner and finding the end to another long security line. Yep, we had to go through another long process to get back onto our plane. Therefore, our one-hour stop in Frankfurt for refueling actually turned out to be a four-hour concentration camp nightmare.


Rainy day in Mumbai. Posted by Picasa

Finally, we were back in the air (as was the tension, since many of my fellow passengers were realizing that they had missed their ongoing flights out of L.A.). Again, another uneventful flight before eventually landing in Los Angeles around 8:00 pm, four hours late. I rented a car (a hot-mama minivan, to be exact) and made it to my sister's house.

Well, it feels great to be back in the USA, albeit a bit strange and surreal. I am defintely looking forward to a fun weekend chock-full of shopping (I left all my ugly, worn-out, and stained backpacker clothing in the hotel room in Goa...no time to burn it!), lying on the beach, and spending time with all my old friends. Next blog...a recap of India!!

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

India: Goa

After a long but surprisingly pleasant train ride through the rainforests, valleys, and hills of southern India, we arrived at Thivim train station Wednesday afternoon. We immediately crammed onto a rickety old bus for the 10 km drive to the bus stand in Mapusa, where we then boarded yet another shoddy bus that took us to Calangute Beach in Goa. One more taxi ride and a few ventures into various guesthouses, Hayli, Cecy, Sarah, and I settled into a four-bed room at the Fatima Guesthouse in Baga Beach.


Crowded Calangute Beach. Posted by Picasa

As the monsoon season is in full swing, we were prepared for the fact that much of Goa, including shops, restaurants, and guesthouses, is shut down. Therefore, we wisely chose touristy Baga Beach over the more quiet, idyllic beaches such as Palolem in order to assure that we could find beds to sleep in and hot meals to eat. Fortunately, it is the tail end of monsoon season, which means the periodic rain shower and partly-cloudy skies; in other words, a major improvement over the tidal waves of rain and wind that we have endured for a month in Nasik.

We spent what was left of our first day settling into Goa. I avoided signs warning of the tides and went swimming in the murky, brown waves (only to contract my first cold while traveling...also found out yesterday that five Indian swimmers drowned in the same spot, thanks to the undertow!). Thursday we girls spent much of the morning at the beach, but of course the rains continued to hamper our attempts at tanning. Miraculously, Friday morning was a sunny one, and I happily toasted my buns to a crisp by the time the afternoon showers began to fall. That night, in celebration of our shedding the "Ashram Blues," we went out to Mambo's club for some apple flavored Hooka and exercise on the dance floor (and, ahem, atop the bar...).


Hey, give us a break...we've been in an ashram for a month!!! Posted by Picasa

Saturday it was back to monsoon gray skies as usual, so we decided to be tourists for the day and see some sights. After climbing into "Sam the Man's" taxi, we rode over to Old Goa. Goa is a beautiful city that was formerly colonized by the Portuguese, and the influence is seen and heard everywhere, from the elaborate Catholic cathedrals to acres of freshly manicured green lawns to Spanish-style homes flanked by gorgeous palms. Even the native Indians have names like Mark DeSouza.


Cecy and the Hooka! Posted by Picasa

In Old Goa, we went to the massive Se Cathedral Church and the ornate St. Francis of Assisi Church. After perusing the lifelike paintings and statues of various saints, we headed to the Basilica de Bom Jesus, Goa's most famous church. It is here that the remains of St. Francis Xavier are kept. St. Francis lived in Goa in the sixteenth century, but when he died they were amazed to find that he refused to rot. Apparently now, hundreds of years later, some of his skin is still intact, even though he has never been embalmed or mummified...I only could see a bit of his skull from my little spot down on the ground (his glass coffin was raised up high)...he just looked like any old ordinary skeleton to me!


St. Francis Xavier's resting place. Posted by Picasa

After getting our fill of sightseeing, Sam drove us into Panjim, Goa's most commercial district for the most exciting adventure of the day...the movies! The movie in which both Cecilia and I "starred" as extras was just released, so we had to check it out. Sure enough, as I was hoping, the back of my head, shoulders, earrings, bracelet (what was I thinking for not taking off that awful red string and shells I was wearing around my wrist??!!) and nightmarish hair made their Bollywood film debut! It was so exciting, and rather funny, actually to see me on the big screen...I have to admit though, I am not the least bit disappointed that my face did not get any screen time...you should have seen the horrendous makeup job!


Catholic church from the Portuguese days in Goa. Posted by Picasa

Yesterday was a completely relaxed day. Again, it was a bit rainy (still nothing compared to Nasik!), and after saying goodbye to Sarah (who was heading back home), Cecy, Hayli, and I just wandered around doing some random shopping. Today was much like yesterday...last minute buys, lunch, and now internet. In just two hours Hayli and I will say goodbye to Cecy (she still has a month left of traveling in India) and board an overnight bus to Mumbai. Once we arrive, we plan to execute what remains of our shopping lists. We both have early Thursday morning planes to catch, and with the increased airline security requiring us to check into the airport three hours in advance, we are planning just to skip out on getting a room and instead heading to the airport Wednesday night. After the nightmare of security, Hayli and I will have each other to keep entertained until we board our respective flights Thursday morning.

And in one final note...I am officially heading home! Here's to a comfortable bus journey to Bombay, a hassle-free sail through airport security, and a safe and secure flight (sans terrorists and/or liquid bombs) to Los Angeles. I'M GOING HOME!!!

Tuesday, August 08, 2006

India: Yoga Week 4

I made it! After four weeks of four-hour-a-day yoga sessions, numerous downright insanely boring lectures, meditations, moldy hair, fungus between each and every toe, skin like that of a sixteen-year-old movie theatre attendant, multiple binges on smuggled peanut butter cookies, and, ironically, a loss of approximately 10 pounds, I MADE IT! I am an official yoga teacher!


Cooking lessons from Mrs. Mandlik. Posted by Picasa

After our much-needed evacuation from the hurricane in the hills around the ashram, we returned last Tuesday afternoon to weather the storms and make it through one more week. The weather had not necessarily improved, but at least we had power and running water. Wednesday was our final exam on our advanced asanas...I was pleased to learn that I placed 5th place out of the forty other students. Thursday and Friday were the trial lessons to prepare us for our final examination...to teach a one-hour yoga class. Chris decided last week that he wanted to leave the course early because of a job position in Korea, so after conducting his lesson early Thursday morning, I gave him a big hug goodbye before he headed off the Bombay. My Japanese roommate, Yuri, also left that morning, and as Cecilia had gone into town, I had the entire bungalow to myself to plan for my trial lesson.

Friday afternoon I conducted my trial lesson to my group of seven others...I thought it was absolutely brilliant, and was shocked to discover that I scored a 138 out of 200...I got the highest score of anyone else in my group, but all the other groups were scoring at well above 150 or 160. It did not take long to realize that our examiner was way too tough. When I asked him about it, he said, "We are not making good teachers, we are making perfect teachers." Allrighty, then...can't argue with that!


Some of the staff at the ashram. Posted by Picasa

I spent Saturday afternoon in town, checking email and enjoying a final day off before my final exam. Sunday afternoon was spent planning and preparing, and I gave my lesson at 4:30. This time I thought I was complete crap, but the examiner said it was "much better". Whatever. At any rate, I knew I had passed, and it felt amazing to know that I was finished!!! Sunday was the final day of lessons, and Monday was spent packing. That evening, we had a graduation ceremony in the main yoga hall. We all received our certificates (I don't know what I was thinking when I agreed to put my photo on the certificate!), and after a painful speech from the Guru-Ji himself, we imbibed in a special buffet dinner prepared by many of the students. I ate until I nearly burst, and after an hour or two watching some dance performances, I headed to my moldy bed for a final, restful sleep.

This morning Hayli, Sarah, Cecilia, and I had a cold breakfast of last night's leftovers before catching a taxi to the train station. After discovering with dismay that our 10:00 am train would be delayed until 12:30 pm, we hung out in the ladies' waiting room, playing cards and reading until our train arrived. I only discovered as we were boarding that our train tickets were "Waiting List". I told ther girls to jump in whatever coach, which turned out to be a fine example of bottom-class sleeper, floors and seats complete with ankle-deep water, all types of fruit juice and rinds, and curious Indians. Five amusing hours later, we arrived in Bombay to heavy rains and flooded streets. We will be here only until 11:00pm tonight, when we board a train bound for the beaches of Goa. However, we will be getting on that train with satisfied tummies, as we have made dinner reservations at a swanky restaurant in Colaba...I am looking forward to a rich meal, wine, and dessert! And I am really looking forward to being at the beach in less that twenty-four hours!!

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

India: Yoga Week 3

I spoke way too soon. Last Tuesday, we had a beautiful sunny day in Nasik for our weekly afternoon away from the wet, dreary ashram. Unfortunately, all of our sun salutations were not enough, because on Wednesday the grey storm clouds rolled in and the monsoon officially began to take its toll on the ashram and its inhabitants. Now, let me elaborate on the wonders of an Indian Monsoon. Torrential downpour. Gale force winds. Hurricane conditions. At least, that is how it is right over our ashram in the hills; the weather is much dryer, warmer, and calmer only forty-five minutes away in Nasik City. I do not understand this phenomena, and I am determined that our ashram is cursed!


Flooding in Nasik! Posted by Picasa

That being said, we all began to slowly lapse into bad moods, short tempers, and overall depression. Just going from your cottage to the mess hall meant getting completely soaked by the pelting, sideways rain. In addition, trying to dry any wet clothes indoors was impossible because of the dampness, so we would just have to opt for cold, wet clothing everyday. To add insult to injury, I awoke around 3:00 am on Friday with the roof leaking right over my head! Finally, on Saturday evening, after we had been without power and water for twenty-four hours already, our director rushed us into taxis and we made the drive into Nasik town through the pouring rain. He wanted us to stay in town at the ashram's main office until the power was restored, and also because the bridge was nearly impassable due to flooding.


This is what happens when you're locked up in an ashram for too long. Posted by Picasa

To say that I was thrilled to ecstasy would be an understatement. I was shocked that quite a few of my fellow students were upset with this decision...I guess none of them had water leak on their foreheads all night! The forty of us arrived at the office around 10:00 pm, and after laying out mats on the floor and a short discussion, I immediately passed out, having one of the best night's sleep in weeks. The next morning we began our final day of lectures, and I was excited about the prospect of learning about Ayurveda Diet and Obesity (a nice change from the oh-so-boring pranic energy mumbo-jumbo lectures!). After the lectures, we went into town and I finally was able to check email!


Another example of Ashram madness! Posted by Picasa

Yesterday morning we awoke to another partly sunny day in Nasik...pure brilliance. It was a written exam day (our final, thank God!), which meant we had loads of time to go into town and play on the internet. After finishing our exam, my friends Hayli, Cecilia, and I decided to walk into town for one more internet session before our 4:30 pm yoga class. Well, we were sitting outside on a step, looking at some of Hayli's newly-developed photos, when some Indian guy came and sat next to me. He started asking us the usual questions...Where are you from? How long have you been in Nasik?...of course, we ignored him (after two months in India, you get tired of the small talk). Cecilia started speaking Spanish to him to get rid of him. Finally, he asked if we spoke English, followed by, "I like sex." I turned to him, told him to go away, that he was a sick man, and maybe an expletive or two for elaboration. We three girls stormed off, and Hayli kept going on and on about how gross that was. Well, it seems in my anger at his comment I failed to notice what he was doing below the belt! Ew, ew, EWWWWW!!! I cannot believe that happened to us!


Happy Evacuees! Posted by Picasa

Today is our final official day off from the course. We slept in (meaning, we awoke around 6:45 am) and after breakfast Cecilia, Hayli, Chris, and I went into town for shopping. We splashed through the muddy streets and took some photos of the angry, flooding river where women were washing clothes in the numerous ghats. We came back to the office for lunch before heading to the theatre to catch the 2:45 pm showing of "Omkara," a supposed Indian rendition of Shakespeare's "Othello". Chris and I struggled through over two hours of the film before telling the girls goodbye and heading to the internet cafe.

Apparently, the power has been restored at the ashram, so tonight we will be going back to complete our final week. It should be a pretty easy week, as we have no lectures planned. We are supposed to be preparing for our final exam, which will involve planning and teaching a one-hour yoga course. The course will commence on Monday with a little yoga graduation, and we are headed by train to Bombay on Tuesday.