Wednesday, March 01, 2006

Cambodia: Phnom Penh

This morning Erin and I were up bright and early at 6:00 am. We ate a quick breakfast and picked up a cheese baguette and apple for lunch before meeting our ride outside the guesthouse at 7:00 am. By 8:00 am, we were at the bus station and ready to board a REAL bus (no more packed mini-buses for me for at least a week, please!) that would take us to Phnom Penh.

Just as I was waiting to board our bus, two cute little boys approached me with huge smiles that seem ubiquitous on Cambodian children's faces. The older of the two shyly pointed to my apple. As I gladly handed it over to them, I decided right then and there that I would do my best to spread apple cheer through the youth of Cambodia. I have heard a rumor that when children beg for money, they immediately turn it over to their parents, who often drink it away at night. Therefore, it's best to give the hungry little ones food; hence, Apple Lady.

The bus was an easy six hour ride, complete with stops at real bathrooms. At our first stop, a few children came asking for money, so I bought a bunch of apples and passed them out. They all excitedly began gnawing on the fruit, cheerfully waving goodbye as the bus left.


David and I, ready for a night out. Posted by Picasa

We arrived in Phnom Penh around 2:00 pm to a mass of tuk tuk drivers lying in wait. A guesthouse advertisement was pressed against our window by an eager Cambodian guy dressed in a Scottish Celtics soccer kit, and before we knew it, Erin and I, along with our rucksacks, were each on the back of a motorbike headed to the "No Problem" guesthouse on the banks of a large lake in the center of town. Of course, since I was wearing a dress, I opted to ride in true "Cambodia Lady" fashion, as my moto driver pointed out: Side Saddle.

We happily paid $3 for a room in the guesthouse that actually sits on stilts over the lake (you can see the water through cracks in the floor) and settled down in the outdoor patio to watch "SuperSize Me" on DVD. After the film, and a huge plate of the best nachos this side of the Gulf of Mexico, Erin and I headed out for dinner. We found a vegetarian joint nearby, where I slurped up pumpkin and tofu soup, rice, and green tea...my new favorite meal for the astonishing total price of $1.80.


Erin with our Swedish pals Nick and Anna-Karin. Posted by Picasa

I am officially in love with Phnom Penh...apart from Angkor Wat, Siem Reap really did not have much else to offer, other than overpriced, elaborately decorated tourist joints. Therefore, Phnom Penh is a breath of fresh air. And to think that Lonely Planet deemed it merely a stop off point for travelers...tsk, tsk. Tomorrow we will set off for some sightseeing.

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