Saturday, February 25, 2006

Laos: Deep Thoughts

As I wrote a recap for my time in Thailand, so shall I do for Laos. But unfortunately, this is my second draft, as my first one (which was ever so witty) was lost forever due to my computer crashing as I typed the final period. Aaaahhh...gotta love Southeast Asia's dial-up service.

Well, I feel that Thailand has a run for its money for the title of "Land of Smiles," as the Laos people are the most friendly and unassuming people I have met thus far. I am sure that this is owed in part to the fact that while it is working hard on attracting visitors, Laos is still miles away from the extreme tourism that is quickly infiltrating its neighbors.


Snug as a bug... Posted by Picasa

Laos is truly the country to "chill out," from slowly tubing down a river with a beer in hand and the warm sun on your face in Vang Vieng, to wandering aimlessly through the cobblestone streets of charming Luang Prabang, to watching the setting sun from your bungalow hammock in Si Phan Don. The over-used term of "something for everyone" truly applies to this enchanting country...the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life.


Relaxed... Posted by Picasa

One secret that I probably should not be sharing to the world via internet is Si Phan Don (but considering that odds are good nobody reads this, it should be safe). While the rest of Laos is still relatively a baby in comparison to its neighbors' mass tourism, it is working its way into the competition. Si Phan Don, however, is in its own little world, thanks to its obscure location far from the well-traveled route up north. I shudder to think what will become of this place once travelers come home with tales of Si Phan Don's serenity and beauty.

As for the food, Laos chow is quite similar to Thai food; however, I find it to be much less spicy, and at times, bland. My favorite traditional meal is Laap, which is a meat dish (preferably fish) covered with mint, cilantro, and lime, served with a bamboo cup of sticky rice. As there is a large French influence in the country, warm, toasted baguettes are to be found everywhere. The coffee is perfectly tasty, thanks to loads of sweet condensed milk.


Laos French Architecture. Posted by Picasa

And I cannot forget the "happy" food...Happy pizzas, Happy calzones, Happy shakes, Happy mashed potatoes, Happy garlic bread, Happy pancakes, Happy happy birthday cakes...the list goes on and on. If it is edible, you can make it "happy" for just $1 or $2 extra. (For those naive souls out there, "happy" involves adding one of the two "m's" to the food: Mushrooms or Maryjane). Erin and I were amused by one particular restaurant menu that devoted an entire page to "Happy Foods," complete with the items "small joint" and "large joint." My personal favorite was the "Happy Hangover Breakfast," which included eggs, baguette, bacon, sausage, coffee, valium, and a painkiller, which you could make "happy," of course.


Mekong River. Posted by Picasa

And now for my random thoughts bit: Toilets that do not flush are no problem as long as there is a bucket of water and a scoop (or spray gun) nearby. After forty-five days traveling through southeast Asia, I have officially mastered the spray gun. When in a pinch, spray... saves the environment from all that messy pink toilet paper (why is it pink here, anyway?). As previously mentioned, French influences are found throughout the country, from the ubiquitous baguettes and cheese to street signs and colonial architecture. True to the laid back Laos nature which I love, the service is SO SLOW...I have come to believe that restaurants employ only one person for the role of chef, server, and cashier. And finally, Lao Lao...losing the battle with a short flight of stairs and crushing in my face is reason enough to keep me far, far away from the potent whisky.


My favorite spot in Laos...Si Phan Don. Posted by Picasa

Last but not least, I have remember all the lovely people I met while in Laos. Of course, it goes without saying that it was a warm addition to my travels to have Erin join me for the journey. And the "Longboat Posse," including Sarah, Aaron, Tierry, and especially Tom and Dom, who we just could not seem to get rid of (and they would probably say the same about us!). Aimee was a great addition to the family, even though our time with her was short-lived. And of course, our troupe of French Canadian friends and Ally and Neal, who put the perfect finishing touch on our final days in Laos.

Another Aaaahhhh....I LOVE Laos! I hate that the border only offers 15-day visas, and I wish I had gotten a 30-day visa ahead of time, because it is an amazing place in which I could have spent months exploring. Cest La Vie...I'll be back!

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